dinky light meter

[mishkin madness]

just for the sake of getting some info out there, i picked up a little yashica light meter, solenium type i think(it measures reflected light) and was quite impressed with it's accuracy.

i had heard in a few old posts that handheld light meters are difficult to use with super8. as i did not entirely understand this, i set about testing mine with various types of film, and it works well.

exept, it can easily pick up surrounding light, so i fasioned a hood for the cell.

also, it is not that great for low light in doors, it is solar powered. (sounds ironic, but i guess makes sense)

it is quite old, made to fit the flash socket of a still camera, it is tiny!

anyway, does anybody know distinct rules on light meter usage with super8, is there an ideal type of meter, eg spot etc?

thanks

[Alex]

Did you know that Norwood was in Australia?

I have one easy guide for using your light meter. Always compare the result to the what the camera is telling you.

But when comparing the camera light meter to you external light meter zoom in to the area that matters the most to you. You don't have to zoom in all the way, but definitely avoid the wide angle setting unless your object is within 5-7 feet of the lens.

After a few rolls you will discover nuances between the two meters. Over time you will learn when to trust the camera meter and when to rely on your external meter.

Be careful with how either meter meters backlight.

[Greg Crawford]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mishkin madness:[QB]i had heard in a few old posts that handheld light meters are difficult to use with super8.

I think the problem was that some Super 8 Cameras were so automated that they would not allow a real person to change the auto exposure.

I had a Super 8 cannon, that the only way I could set the meter was find a item that gave the readying I wanted to set the aperture at, then lock the switch by taping it with Gaffers tape to the body of the camera.

Remember your light meter see the world as middle gray (Zone V on Ansel Adams gray scale.) If you measure the light on a Caucasian face, then set the camera you will be under exposing the face. Caucasian skin is zone VI or one stop more open than mid gray.

If you meter a dark tree truck you might be over exposing the tree truck by up to three stops. If you were to measure the light falling on snow in sunlight you might be under exposing the shot by up to 3 to 4 stops. Making for dirty looking snow.

And like Alex said be carful of back lighting. It can look wonderful, but you need to know how to lower the contrast by filling the front of the face and allowing the back light to do it's thing.

[Greg Crawford]

Oh, your right in geting in close to use your reflective meter.

Happy Shooting

[mishkin madness]

thanks for the tips!

i have been experimenting with it around the neighboorhhod, and comparing it to my canon's reading. i find that the hand held meter works well with few high contrasts, when this happens, i attach a two inch cardbourd hood over the light cell, and that solves the problem.

now to go home and study up on the gray scale, apparently easy concept, i just have to train myself to think like a light meter!?

thanks for the help.